
After lunch on Saturday, we headed up the Embarcadero toward Pier 39 and Fisherman's Wharf. Just in front of the Ferry Building, I was delighted to see this charming pink bike and this even charminger knitted pole-cozy:



Did you ever? I never.
The historic trolley cars (not to be confused with the historic cable cars) stop right in front of the Ferry Building, so we took a few steps to the little shelter to wait for the trolley (Line F Market), and I looked down and saw this:

I had lunch with Diane Wakoski when I was in college. Just Diane and an English professor and I, sitting in the cafeteria. She's pretty interesting. I was surprised to find her there like that, all of a sudden.
San Francisco made me feel like Alice down the rabbit hole, really. I quite like that feeling, because then you start looking for unusual things, and unusual things start popping out, everywhere.
Going north on the Embarcadero in a trolley car from the Ferry Building is very enjoyable, because you can count the piers (starting from Pier One) on your right as you head up the coast. The buildings in front of the piers are all labeled, and they fly by. It's a quick trip to Pier 39.

Pier 39 is what I would describe as a clean, very touristy shopping area. When I was a teenager, I bought a poster of Mikhael Baryshnikov at Image Arts San Francisco. I was excited to see that the store was still there.
If Pier 39 consisted only of the shopping, you would be okay just skipping it. :) But there are such neat views out the back.
For instance, there is Alcatraz.

It makes me feel cold and lonely just looking at it.
(We didn't want to tour the island with Claire along because of course it's a grim tour, but if you wanted to do that, you just hop off at Pier 33. There is a whole industry devoted to Alcatraz. Pier 39 had several shops.)
And then there is this lovely view of Coit Tower, seemingly right-next-to and the-same-size-as the Transamerica Building, although in fact Coit Tower is 210 feet tall, and is in the Telegraph Hill neighborhood (on top of the hill), whereas the Transamerica Building is 850 feet tall and is in the Financial District. (We could see the Transamerica Building out our hotel window. I mean, we had to lean, but it was there.)
If you ever find yourself in the mood to read about wealthy socialites who wore trousers and smoked cigars and chased fires, read about Lillie Hitchcock Coit, whose money was used to build Coit Tower. She was a character.

So after we poked around Pier 39 for a bit (and saw the sea lions who lie on the docks), we walked the short rest of the way to Fisherman's Wharf.
While Pier 39 is touristy and borderline tacky, Fisherman's Wharf has just pulled out all the stops and is going for all-singing, all-dancing gaucherie. It seems to have been planned by the same folks who brought you the U.S. side of Niagara Falls.
Why do these places always have wax museums? And is all that yellow signage really necessary, Kodak store? Yeesh.


So I'd say skip Fisherman's Wharf, which is congested and ugly and mostly inane, but then you'd miss Boudin bakery's flagship location (which contains a bakery and cafe in Baker's Hall, a marketplace, and a bistro, plus a demonstration bakery and a museum), which is lovely, and you don't want to miss that. Boudin is San Francisco's oldest continuously running company (since 1849), and you would miss the wonderful smell and taste of fresh sourdough bread if you didn't pop in.
(Although if you do decide to give Fisherman's Wharf a miss, there are other Boudin cafe/bakeries dotted around the city. There is one at Pier 39, for instance.)

The demonstration bakery faces the street through a 30-foot observation window, and you can speak to the bakers and hear them.



I'm not saying I did buy and then consume an entire .5 lb. round of sourdough bread in the time it took to walk from Boudin up to Ghirardelli Square, but if you wanted to do this, I bet you could. Yep.
I don't mind telling you that bread is my great food weakness in life. I could do without almost any food except bread.
(And cheese. I also need cheese.)
I remembered Ghirardelli Square fondly from my time with Elizabeth, Susie, and Jenny. The big sign wasn't turned on yet as we headed up the hill. Sorry about that.

However, this little midget sign was turned on, and this is where we entered to buy delicious chocolate. I should note that every time you go through the front door, you get a free sample of something. This time it was Peppermint Bark.
(Oh, and chocolate. I also need chocolate.)

After Bob and Claire had each consumed an icecream sundae, which did not sound good to me at all because I may or may not have eaten half a pound of bread, we headed back down the Fisherman's Wharf to take our Mr. Toad's Tour. I absolutely recommend this if you visit San Francisco! We took the 90-minute "Holiday Lights" tour, and saw all kinds of interesting places: beautiful houses in the Marina District and Pacific Heights, the Presidio (an old Army base that is now a national park; the headquarters of George Lucas's Industrial Light and Magic is there), Russian Hill, Nob Hill, North Beach (the traditionally Italian section of San Francisco, that is full of delicious-smelling Italian restaurants), lots of other places, and a wonderful view of the sparkly-at-night Golden Gate Bridge.

I loved how the Palace of Fine Arts glowed. (It was built for the Panama Pacific Exposition in 1915, which celebrated the completion of the Panama Canal and San Francisco's rebirth following the 1906 earthquake.)



It was just the nicest, coziest, most fun tour. And then we went back to the hotel and found milk and cookies waiting for us (awesome turndown service!) and went to bed.
Tomorrow I will tell you about what we did Sunday, and that will conclude our little San Francisco vacation. :)
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